Battambang Travel Guide: Ptes Lorry Resort (Phnom Banan) and Bat Cave (Phnom Sampov)
After visiting Siem Reap, many travelers continue their journey to Battambang, Cambodia's second-largest city.
If you're planning to visit Siem Reap first, be sure to read my guide, "Siem Reap: Angkor Wat Tips, Weather, and Travel Guide," where I share everything you need to know before your trip.
Battambang is best known for its famous Bamboo Train, a unique attraction where visitors ride a small bamboo platform along old railway tracks through the countryside. It's one of the city's most popular experiences and offers a fun way to enjoy Battambang's beautiful rural scenery.
Ptes Lorry Resort
However, there's another ride that's popular with both tourists and locals—the Lorry. Unlike the Bamboo Train, the Lorry takes visitors to a nearby resort while offering a scenic journey through the Banan mountain. It's a small open-air trolley that runs along old railway tracks with simple bench seating for around six passengers. The driver stands or sits at the back to operate the vehicle.
Although the ride lasts less than five minutes, it's one of the highlights of the visit. The short journey offers beautiful views of the surrounding countryside before arriving at the resort, making it a fun and unique experience for visitors of all ages.
The biggest challenge is actually finding the resort. It's located a short distance from Phnom Sampov, so it can take a little while to reach if you're unfamiliar with the area. Once you arrive, however, the peaceful surroundings and scenic atmosphere make the journey well worth it.
The Weather
The Lorry operates even during light rain, so a few showers won't stop the ride. In fact, I think May is one of the best times to visit. The occasional rain helps cool the weather, making the ride more comfortable than during the hottest months.
I've visited twice—once in May and once in June. During my May trip, the weather was sunny, while my June visit had light rain. Although the rain briefly cooled things down, it didn't take long for the sun to come back out, and the weather quickly became hot and humid again.
After the ride, we explored the resort's gardens, but the afternoon heat was so intense that we had to stop and rest before continuing our walk later in the evening. The gardens are beautifully landscaped with colorful flowers, walking paths, and several fun statues, including a large Hulk statue that makes for a great photo opportunity.
The Price
The admission fee can be a bit pricey, especially for foreign visitors. At the time of my visit, Cambodian citizens paid 17,000 riels, while foreign visitors paid $7.50 USD. Although it's more expensive for tourists, I still think it's worth the price for the unique experience, beautiful scenery, and relaxing atmosphere.
If you decide to stay overnight at the resort, there's an added benefit. Guests receive a refund on the Lorry admission for up to two people per room, which helps offset some of the cost.
Rooms typically range from $38 to $50 USD per night, depending on the room type and season. Keep in mind that breakfast and other meals are not included in the room rate, so you'll need to budget separately for food during your stay.
The Resort Rooms
I thought the resort rooms were well worth the price. They were clean, comfortable, and surrounded by beautiful scenery, making them a relaxing place to stay after a day of exploring. Although some amenities were limited, likely because the resort doesn't receive a large number of guests year-round, I still found the overall experience enjoyable.
The resort offers a variety of accommodations, including one-bedroom rooms and larger villas with two separate bedrooms for families or groups. Even the one-bedroom rooms are quite spacious and include a couch that can comfortably accommodate an additional guest if needed.
If you're planning to spend the night, I think staying at the resort is a great option. The peaceful atmosphere, beautiful gardens, and convenient access to the Lorry ride make it a memorable place to relax and unwind.
The Swimming Pool
The resort also has a large swimming pool that's perfect for families. It's spacious enough for both young children and adults to enjoy, making it a great place to cool off after spending the day exploring in the heat. Whether you want to swim a few laps or simply relax by the water, the pool is a nice addition to the resort.
The Bike Ride
Guests staying at the resort can use bicycles as part of their stay, and visitors who aren't staying overnight can also rent a bike after riding the Lorry. It's a relaxing way to explore the resort at your own pace.
You can cycle around the beautifully landscaped gardens, the fish pond, and the various statues scattered throughout the property. The peaceful surroundings and quiet paths make biking a fun activity for both adults and children.
The food
I was pleasantly surprised by the food at the resort. We had dinner there on our first night and breakfast the following morning, and both meals were delicious. The menu offers a variety of Cambodian dishes along with a few international options, so there was something for everyone in our group.
The prices were reasonable for a resort, and the portions were generous. Since breakfast isn't included with the room, you'll need to order it separately, but I thought it was well worth the cost.
The Bat Cave
One of Battambang's most popular attractions is the Bat Cave at Phnom Sampov. Some travelers even choose to skip Phnom Penh and visit Battambang instead because they want to experience this incredible natural spectacle.
Every evening, hundreds of thousands of bats emerge from the cave to hunt for food. Instead of flying out all at once, they leave in long, continuous streams that stretch across the evening sky. It's an unforgettable sight and one of the most unique experiences I've had in Cambodia.
The bats typically begin leaving the cave around sunset. During the rainy season, this is usually between 6:00 p.m. and 6:30 p.m., while in the cooler, drier months they often emerge closer to 5:30 p.m.
While you're waiting for the bats, you can also explore the large Buddha statues located at the base of the mountain. These impressive sculptures make great photo opportunities and showcase the craftsmanship of the local community. If you have time, I recommend arriving early so you can explore the area before the bats emerge.
My Experience At the Bat Cave
It was incredibly crowded, with a mix of foreign tourists and Cambodian families all gathered to watch the bats emerge from the cave. As sunset approached, the excitement in the air grew as everyone waited for the first bats to appear.
The area was lively and bustling. Street vendors lined the walkways, calling out to visitors while selling snacks, drinks, and souvenirs. Although it was busy and sometimes noisy, the atmosphere added to the experience and made the Bat Cave feel like a popular evening gathering place.
If you'd like to sit at one of the tables near the best viewing spots, you'll usually need to purchase something from the stall. Food, grilled meat, and drinks generally cost around $1 USD, making it an inexpensive way to enjoy the show while supporting the local vendors.
I've visited the Bat Cave twice, and I loved both experiences. Watching the sunset while waiting for the bats to emerge made the evening even more memorable. On both visits, the bats began leaving the cave at around 6:05 p.m. I was able to capture some great photos and videos of the seemingly endless stream of bats filling the evening sky—something I'll never forget.
Restrooms
There are several restroom options available while you're visiting the Bat Cave. If possible, I recommend using the restroom before the crowds arrive, as it can get quite busy closer to sunset.
Many of the food stalls and vendors also have restrooms that customers can use.
Admission and Parking
One of the best things about visiting the Bat Cave is that there's no entrance fee, making it a great budget-friendly attraction in Battambang.
Parking is also free, although the parking area is located a short walk from the base of Phnom Sampov. During my visit, we parked quite a distance away from the Buddha statues, so be prepared for a brief walk before reaching the main viewing area. Fortunately, the path is lined with food stalls and vendors, giving you plenty to see along the way.
Final Thoughts
Overall, I really enjoyed my trip to Battambang. While many travelers focus on Siem Reap and Angkor Wat, I think Battambang deserves a place on every Cambodia itinerary. The city has a slower pace, beautiful countryside, and unique attractions that you won't find anywhere else.
My favorite experiences were riding the Lorry through the countryside, relaxing at Pteas Lorry Resort, and watching hundreds of thousands of bats emerge from Phnom Sampov at sunset. Each attraction offered something completely different, making the trip feel diverse and memorable.